Johanna Ortiz RTW Spring 2022 – WWD

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For spring, Johanna Ortiz has put together a collection full of craftsmanship and the luxurious ease in which she has excelled recently, while still retaining the alluring details she started with.

Ruffles made a comeback on tropical print garden dresses while voluminous sleeves adorned a cherry red cotton dress with a pleated skirt. Meanwhile, ’90s-style briefs sported sexy spaghetti straps with raffia and hand-beaded seed bead hems, and playful pleated dresses were in shimmering silk Lurex (both new for the brand and “Itch free,” Ortiz added). The designer’s tropical prints of the season, sporting the majority of the collection’s fluid day and night styles, curled palms inspired by Matisse and nomadic art from Central Asia; the biggest novelty in “prints” came from the large palms above the day dresses, which were actually hand-embroidered raffia patterns.

“There is all this craftsmanship, which for me is the new luxury,” explained the designer to Zoom from Paris, where she was making her debut in the spring by appointment. While artisan craftsmanship certainly stood out in ready-to-wear and through its fabulous mochilas and jewelry, Ortiz merged these details into fabrications and silhouettes that always offered comfort and ease. For example, there was a black floral ruffled strapless dress that she said was all cotton.

Ortiz cited tango as the inspiration for the season; her collection certainly offered all the sensuality and charm of once-forbidden dance, while also empowering women through an upbeat yet luxurious and easy modern dress.

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