A Collected Man opens auction on classic neo-vintage watches

London-based rare watch dealer A Collected Man has launched an online auction featuring five “truly exceptional and rare neo-vintage” pieces.

Week-long auction is live now at A Gathered Man and ends June 29. Here, HYPEBEAST takes a look at the bundles.

Cartier Santos Dumont 90th Anniversary

The first is one of 90 individually numbered Cartier Santos Dumont watches produced in platinum for the design’s 90th anniversary in 1994.

The watch pairs a warm dial that sits somewhere between champagne and salmon – a rarity for Cartier – with the white metal platinum case alongside all of the model’s signature design elements, including black Roman numerals, the railway timer, the blued Breguet hands and the visible screw heads. .

Vacheron Constantin Mercator

With 1990s watches from established workshops and groundbreaking independents

Also from 1994, the Vacheron Constantin Mercator 43050 marked the 400th anniversary of the death of Geradus Mercator, pioneer geographer and cartographer. During the 10 years of availability of the 36 mm watch, 638 pieces were produced.

The atypical yellow gold timepiece displays the time using two retrograde compass-shaped hands; hours on the left and minutes on the right. The engraved enamel dial features a map of Europe, Africa and Asia originally drawn by Mercator in the 16th century.

Daniel Roth Monopusher Chronograph

With 1990s watches from established workshops and groundbreaking independents

Watchmaker Daniel Roth sourced a small number of 1930s Lemania 2220 movements in 1991, refining them to the highest standard just two years after establishing his eponymous brand. He made a total of 52 monopusher chronographs, 36 in yellow gold cases and 16 in platinum.

The example offered by A Collected Man is one of the platinum examples with a complementary white gold dial embellished with a mixture of decorative guilloché techniques including Clous de Paris. The watch is also individually numbered with the inscription “Numero 8” at six o’clock, the movement bearing the same number.

Audemars Piguet star wheel

With 1990s watches from established workshops and groundbreaking independents

Proof that modern Audemars Piguet has not always been dominated by the Royal Oak, this rare platinum star wheel shows the brand’s vision of the wandering hours display using three rotating sapphire discs on a carousel rotary that follows a minute scale of 120 degrees at the top. of the dial.

Franck Muller Prototype Chronograph

With 1990s-era watches from established workshops and groundbreaking independents

Early in Franck Muller’s career he produced a number of mid-century influenced chronographs in stainless steel, this example being a rare prototype not intended for sale.

The understated design of the two-register chronograph housed in a 36mm case is the antithesis of the bold, oversized style with which Muller would later be associated. The three-piece stainless steel case, with stepped concave bezel, is engraved with ‘prototype’ and ‘N. 0/0’.

In other watch news, the longtime CEO of Audemars Piguet is leaving the brand.

Laura J. Boyer